Bear Lane Guide Service Binocular Guide
Not an expert on optics and you need some binocs? Here is a brief and very basic binocular primer to help you pick some binocs that will work for you.
Click here to see how to clean your binocs and other optical lenses.
What do the numbers mean? Is bigger better?
The first thing you notice when shopping for binoculars is the numbers. So many types, 6X20, 8X35, 10X50. The numbers are simple. The first number is the "Power". 6X magnifies 6 times, 10X magnifies 10 times. The second number tells the size, in millimeters, of the front lenses.
Zoom binoculars have numbers like 8-20X42. That would indicate variable "power" of 8X to 20X.
What numbers do I need?
Power is good, right? Well, like most things, too much of a good thing is not good. If you are going to grab those binocs and hold them to your face you can not hold anything larger than about 8X steady enough to see anything. 10X and higher will drive you crazy. If you can use techniques to steady the binoculars, like you do to steady your rifle, then you can do 10X. The exception to this rule, for you rich guys, is the "IS" line from Canon. They have electronics to steady the image. They are a little less bright in dim conditions but the "IS" line is pretty amazing, and expensive.
What about that second number? That millimeter thing. Here bigger is better. 8X50's are much better at dawn and dusk than 8X35's. That front lenses is called the "objective" if you must know. Just like those big telescopes look deeper into space you can look longer into the evening with a larger lenses. Go for quality first, then for a big second number. This rule has an exception, too, big objective lenses means bigger heavier binocs. If the binoculars are too big to carry along then they won't do you much good, will they.
Where and when you hunt is the main consideration. If you are in an open area and hunt at range with a scope then little 6X25's are probably a waste. In the big spaces you might want 10X magnification or more, just remember you'll need a bipod or something to steady down the shakes. If you are in the woods then high power binocs are a waste. If are in the woods at dawn or stretching the day into the evening then that "objective" number, the second number in the thisXthat should be BIG to gather in the dim light.
What is "field-of-view"?
Field-of-view is the difference between tunnel-vision and the big picture. You want the big picture so pick the largest field-of-view. Cheap optics tend to have smaller field-of-views than better optics. Binocular's larger field-of-view, and the fact that you can use both eyes, are why they are much nicer than looking through the rifle scope or a spotting scope. If all other things are equal go with the wide-field models.
What if I wear glasses?
Stop whining and get binocs with "long eye relief". Put on the specs and read the specs. Eye relief should be at least 16mm. Look for "roll back rubber eye cups". Rolling them back gets the binoculars a little closer to your glasses and gets you a wider field of view.
How about the number that starts with $ ?
This is one damn important number. Go too cheap and you have junk. That about says it all. Some of the names that are pretty recognizable aren't the best tools for this job. You might want to shop beyond wallyworld for optics. There are a number of companies that make some seriously wonderful optics. Some are real pricey, some are great values, you have to shop around. Here's a short list you might consider and there are lots more I'm to lazy to look up. If you have some that should be listed here let the webmaster know.
What else?
Water-proof is always good, you are going outside with these and you know how it likes to rain on you. That rubber-coating "armor" is nice. Coated lenses is typical for good binocs. The coating kind of sucks the light in, rather than letting it bounce off. "IS" means image stabilization. They are out of my price range but I had the pleasure of checking out the Canon IS 15X50's. The shakes you see with handheld 15X binocs will give you a headache in minutes. But mash down on the IS button and the image goes steady, like magic. Thank goodness nobody has offered to trade a set of these for my soul! The price has come down a lot, though, even right on the Canon website.
Now I have them, how do I focus them?
You have two focusers. The main one, and that pesky little one on the right eye. Here's how you handle it. With BOTH EYES OPEN hold your one hand (or a helpers hand) over the front of the lenses with the extra focuser, usually the right eye. Using the primary focuser focus on something. Something with lots of detail that isn't to far away. Get this focus REAL good, rock the focuser back and forth to get right in the middle of the sharp zone. Now, cover the other lenses and using THE LITTLE EYEPIECE FOCUSER get a sharp focus on the exact same object you focused the other side on. Now you have set the focus to compensate for the difference in your left and right eyes. Look at the markings on the eyepiece focuser. Why? Because ever darn person that grabs your binocs is going to mess up your precious focus, that's why! You will have to re-do this focus each time you switch back and forth between using your binocs with and without your glasses. If you have bifocals get in habit of looking through the top of them when glassing. If things look very very tiny turn the binoculars around and look through the other end.